Indien/India

1,1 mia. mennesker i Indien – ikke overraskende at verden bliver overbefolket. Ikke mange fra Vesten ønsker at bo i Indien, men alligevel er der strenge regler for at komme ind (iflg. Kilder er det en modforanstaltning fordi at Vesten har stramme visumregler mod dem). Vejret var ved ankomsten til New Delhi som forventet ekstrem varmt – hedebølgen var ankommet blot 1 uge før, altså ca. 1 måned tidligere end forventet. 43 grader om dagen – og op til 39 grader om aftenen. Lufthavnen var desuden fuld af uniformerede soldater med tunge våben, så jeg i første omgang troede, at der var en terrortrussel. Glem endelig ikke noget inde i lufthavnen - er du først gået ud, kan du ikke komme ind igen.

Man skal væbne sig med tålmodighed, når man kommer til Indien. Trafikken er tæt med køer på vejbanen og alt kørende på hjul, der ikke overholder nogen regler, så kaos og trafikpropper er daglig underholdning. Jeg bemærkede især, hvor dygtigt inderne undgår ulykker selvom de kører helt sindssygt. De formår også at snog sig i snævre gader uden at påkøre nogen eller noget – det er helt fascinerende. Jeg tror ikke mange vesterlændinge kunne klare det lige så godt. Der findes i øvrigt ikke megen lysregulering i Indien men en masse rundkørsler. Der er heller ikke meget politi til at styre alle lovovertrædelserne, men det er også ligegyldigt eftersom politiet er korrupt

Rejseruten var New Delhi – Jaipur – Agra – Orccha – Varanasi – Bhutwal og Lumbini – Barauli og Chitwan National Park – Pokhra – Katmandu og meget trættende, da der højest var overnatning på samme hotel 2 dage.

New Delhi om aftenen mindede mig om mit første indtryk af Hong Kong – ikke til at se en hånd for sig for mennesker på gaden og reklameskilte, som skygger for alt anden udsigt. Det var et meget kort møde med Delhi, men jeg fik da lige set et par attraktioner så som India Gate, hvor vi lige kunne øjne præsidentboligen Rashtrapati Bhavan selvom den lå meget langt væk og Connaught Place, der især bærer præg af den tidligere britiske kolonitid. Derefter gik rejsen videre til Jaipur længere sydpå. Det var begyndelsen til mange timers kørsel gennem et landskab af fattigdom og oceaner af affald allevegne. Meget affald har jeg set rundt omkring, men Indien slår det 2 gange – ikke en plet uden affald selv de mest øde steder.

I Jaipur var attraktionen The Pink City – hvor et afgrænset område bliver holdt i falmet lyserød. Det var bare så varmt, at det var ulideligt selv i skyggen, og man fik hurtigt overstået sine beskuelser. Særligt for mig, som i forvejen har det med varme, var varmen en udfordring. Derfor blev jeg også lidt imponeret over, at man spillede Indiens nationalsport Cricket selv i den hede.

Jaipur er et handelscentrum for delstaten Rajastan og uden IT-centre og vindmøllefabrikker. Vi ankom ret sent, så der blev kun tid til et kort hvil på hotellet før det gik videre i richshaws til en biograf med en Bollywoodfilm.  De indiske richshaws er bygget, så man føler man falder af, hvis man ikke læner sig godt tilbage og holder fast. En Bollywoodfilm er en speciel oplevelse. Inden filmen går i gang står alle op og synger nationalsangen. Under filmen, som kan være usædvanlig langtrukken og på indisk, larmer folk med begejstrede tilråb og hujen. Bollywoodfilm er dans og pladderromatik. 

Dagen efter gik turen først til Hawa Mahal (vindenes palads) der kun udgør en facade ud til en befærdet vej. Det udgjorde tidligere et udsigtspunkt for Jaipurs royale kvinder, for at lade dem se uden at blive set. Derefter gik det videre til Amber Fort lidt uden for byen. Heden var ulidelig selvom det endnu ikke var middag og fortet lå forholdsvis højt over byen i et åbent landskab. Man skulle hele tiden passe på med at fotografere de indfødte, da de straks greb chancen til at kræve penge. Hele vejen igennem var det utrolig generende hele tiden at blive presset for penge. Turisterne blev advaret om ikke at falde for tiggeriet. Ingen behøver at sulte i Indien, da der er gratis mad i templerne. Efter Amber Fort blev det tid til at blive præsenteret for købsmuligheder i en lille forretning, hvor man selv trykkede mønstre på stofferne, men priserne var turistpriser – det blev dog til et par tynde bukser og et sjal. Man skulle jo helst være anstændig selvom man mest havde lyst til det modsatte. Derefter blev det til en kort frokost, så man kunne tage en gåtur til Jaipur City Palace og se på en hel masse gamle ting, men det var så varmt, at det var svært at koncentrere sig.

Udmattelsen var allerede ved at gøre sit indtog, så jeg var den eneste der blev på hotellet for at få en hvil. Heldigvis var Mandy vores guide der stadig, og hun var på vej ud for at hente penge i byen, så jeg tog med og bagefter tog vi en tur rundt i the Pink City og kiggede på smykker.Foruden alle de gængse bazarer, er der en masse juvelbutikker med ædelstene fra rubiner, safirer og smaragder til ametyster og andre billigere sten – alt  til rimelige priser men også med lidt hang til ringe kvaliteter. Diamanter er ikke særlig udbredte i de mange butikker.

Vores hotel lå midt i et virvar af smågader med handlende og en masse støj – men sjovt nok var der helt stille lige så snart vi kom inden for hotellets jernlåger og høje mure. I boderne, hvor man tilberedte og solgte mad, lå det råt kød i den stegende hede, så man skulle holde sig fra maden på gaden. Man skulle også holde sig fra frugt, der ikke kunne skraldes og selvfølgelig is og vand – selv is med ukendte mærker fra isboder. Man blev også rådet til at tjekke plumberingen på de vandflasker, som man købte.

Dagen efter var det igen tidligt op for at køre de 5-6 timer til Agra. Først til Agra Fort med den utrolig smukke tomme Moské i hvid marmor, Jehangiri Mahal, hvorfra man kan se over til Taj Mahal i det fjerne. Taj Mahal var selvfølgelig smukt og imponerende udvendigt. Man glemmer umiddelbart at det kun er et mausoleum indtil man kommer inden for, hvor det jo er begrænset hvad der er. Aberne, som er overalt i Indien, drønede også rundt alle vegne. Efter Agra startede den første togtur til Jhansi igennem et landskab med spredte små og større landsbyer med huse af alt fra skure og træ og blik til dårlig muret huse. I Jhansi gik det ud af byen til den hellige by Orchha med en ½ times kørsel i Tuk-Tuk. Hotellet var rart og vi slap for at ligge i en teltlejr, da det simpelthen var for varmt. Der har som sædvanlig ikke meget internet at hente, men rigtig dejligt ikke at føle presset af det digitale mediepres.

Der er dejligt i Orchha, en af Indiens mest hellige byer, som er en meget lille og søvnig by ved Betwafloden.

Inden en Hinduceremoni (Puja) i det nærliggende Ran Raja var vi inviteret til at overvære indvielsen af en hjemmeside for byen – vi fik både blomsterkranse om halsen og fotograferet af de lokale journalister. Man følte sig næste som en berømthed. I øvrigt ville alle meget gerne fotograferes med hvide turister.

Dagen efter blev endnu et gammelt palads Orchha Palace fra Mongultiden set i stegende hede, og dagen efter igen blev jeg syg af en virus, som gjorde mig stum i 2 dage og gav hoste og feber resten af turen, men jeg havde heldigvis et helt apotek med, så jeg klarede at holde den gående. Forinden fik jeg dog en tur for mig selv over floden på en bro, der var så smal, at jeg næsten røg ud over kanten da en bus kørte forbi for at krydse floden. Der blev badet lystigt i floden, men mange har jo heller ikke sanitet. Man bør holde sig i respektfuld afstand.

Pga. min virus var den 14 timers togtur til Varanasi derfor også ekstra ubehagelig. De indiske toge er ikke ligefrem luksuriøse og sovekupeerne er åbne og med 7 sovepladser, som både er korte og oven på hinanden i 3-køjefunktion. Jeg lukkede ikke et øje hele natten.

Hotellet lå ikke så langt fra stationen, men jeg var heldig at blive kørt den korte vej med Tuk-tuk og kufferter, fordi jeg var så svedt. Efter at bagagen var anbragt spiste vi frokost på hotellet – det var for varmt at gå ud og der foregik ikke så meget i nærheden af hotellet, som lå et godt stykke vej fra floden Ganges og de Ghats, som vi skulle se. Sidst på eftermiddagen blev vi hentet og kørt ned til Gangesfloden for at gå en kort tur omkring de mange Ghats inden det gik ud på vandet i en lille båd for at opleve større hindu ceremonier langs vandet. Der var utrolig mange mennesker og ceremoniel hindu klokkemusik og alligevel var det en fredsfyldt oplevelse at se det siddende i en lille båd tæt på det hele. Hinduer har ligbrændinger langs vandet hele døgnet rundt og de foregår ligesom en del af hele livsformen, hvor der også bades i den beskidte hellige flod både morgen og aften for at vaske alle synder væk. Tidligt om morgenen den næste dag blev vi hentet af richshaws i gyden ved hotellets bagindgang for at tage endnu en bådtur på Ganges ved solopgang samt en større morgenyogaseance foretaget af en Guru og med deltagelse af de lokale og en enkelt ko, som vadede rundt blandt folk. Bagefter blev det til en kort gåtur langs nogle af de 108 Ghats, hvorefter turen gik videre de 13 km til Sarnath for at se ruinerne, hvor Budda holdt sin først prædiken og det træ (flyttet), hvor han sad under og fik sin åbenbaring samt besøge et Budda tempel og blive ”snydt” af et familiemedlem til en af munkene. De lader deres familier tjene penge på bl.a. at opkræve betaling for at man stiller sine sko i 5 min uden for et tempel.  Bagefter var vi nogle få som valgte af gå i de nærliggende meget smalle gader for at se vævemarkedet og hvordan man laver skabeloner til tøjmønstre fra bunden samt hele processen til det kan sælges af små overherreagtige muslimer med den sædvanlige arrogance – man kan næsten adskille dem for andre kulturer bare ved deres adfærd. Sælgeren var i hvert fald ikke til for kunderne og der var selvfølgelig heller ”ingen” pression på køberne. Om aftenen kunne man så få sig en billig hudmaling med Henna, som bruges meget i Indien som en del af påklædningen ved bryllupper. Der lå nogle små simple og fattige barakker i området omkring hotellet, hvor nogle af de lokale piger tjente nogle ekstra penge på at udsmykke turister. Hennamaling holder ca. 14 dage.

1.1 billion people in India – not surprising that the world is overpopulated. Even though not many people from the West want to live there, there are strict visa regulations to get into the country (according to sources because of the strict regulations against Indians coming to the West).

As expected it was extremely hot when I arrived in New Delhi – the heat had arrived just 1 week before – which was 1 month earlier than expected. Around 43 degrees centigrade during the day and up to 39 degrees centigrade in the evening – the airport was full of men in uniform with heavy weapons. I almost thought that terror was around the corner. Don't forget anything inside the airport - you will not be allowed to enter again if you have stepped outside.

You need to be patient when you are in India. The traffic is dense with cows and everything on wheel. None of them comply with rules and regulations, so chaos and traffic jam is daily entertainment.

The itineray was New Delhi – Jaipur – Agra – Orccha – Varanasi – Bhutwal and Lumbini – Barauli and Chitwan National Park – Pokhra – Katmandu and very exhausting, as it involved only 2 days at the most in each hotel.

New Delhi reminded me of my first impression of Hong Kong – crowds of people everywhere and commercial signs covering for any view of orientation. Delhi was only a brief meeting but I saw some attractions like the India Gate with a view to the presidential palace Rashtrapati Bhavan quite far away, and Connaught Place with buildings from the time when India was a British colony. The journey continued to Jaipur further south. It was in fact the start of many hours of driving through a landscape of powerty and loads of garbage everywhere. I have seen much garbage in the East but India beets it times 2e – ikke en plet uden affald selv de mest øde steder. I have seen much garbage around the globe but India beats it times 2 – not a single spot without trash – not even the most desolated places.

The Pink City was the attraction in Jaipur – a limited area kept in faded pink. Sightseeing was however kept to a limit because of the boiling heat. Especially for me the heat was a challenge, which was why I was impressed by the Cricket players were able to play India’s national sport during day time.

Jaipur is a commercial center in the India's biggest state Rajastan but has no IT centers or windmill factories. The arrival was pretty late so there was only time for a short rest in the hotel before the pickup by richshaws to watch a Bollywoodfilm. The Indian richshaws are built so that you feel that you might fall of if you don’t lean back or cling to anything solid on the bike. A Bollywoodfilm is a special experience. Before the movie starts everyone stands up and sings the national anthem. During the movie which is both long lasting and in Indian language people make a lot of noise both cheering and hoots. Bollywood films are dances and hogwash romance. 

The next day started at the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the winds), but it is only a facade next to a busy road. In the earlier days it was the possibility for Jaipur’s royal females to watch the outside without being seen. After this short stop the ride went on to Amber Fort a little outside the city. The heat was unbearable although it was not even midday yet. The fort was on a hill in an open landscape. All the time you have watch out not to take photos of the native people who right away would see the chance for charging you for money. After each time abroad you tend to forget how annoying it is to have people begging for money all the time. Tourists are warned not to fell pity for the beggars because no one needs to starve in India, as there is enough free food in the temples. After having seen Amber Fort we were of course presented for shopping possibilities probably the guide got a share of the income from the little shop, where they did pattern printing on the fabrics themselves - at tourist prices of course – I did though buy a pair of thin trousers and a shawl.  After a short lunch it was time for a walk to Jaipur City Palace to see a lot of old stuff, but it was too hot to concentrate.

Exhaustion was already beginning to be a problem so I was the only one left back in the hotel because I had to have a long rest, but fortunately Mandy our guide was still behind and about to go out to get cash and so invited me to join her to the Pink City looking at bazars and a lot of jewelry shops with all kinds of gems from rubies, sapphires and emeralds to amethysts and other cheaper stones – al at fair prices but probably also a little less good quality. Not many shops had diamonds.

The hotel was in the middle of a jungle of small streets with traders and a lot of noise – but strangely it was very quiet as soon as you were behind the walls of the hotel. In the bazars selling and preparing food they had raw meat lying on tables in the heat, so you had to be careful with the street food 
and I never ate any nor had ice or drank tapwater – only peelable fruit and ice from well known brands. You also had to check the sealing of the waterbootles.

The day after it was time to drive the 5-6 hours to Agra to see Tash Mahal but the first stop was Agra Fort with an unbelievable beautiful but empty Mosque in white marble Jehangiri Mahal from where you could see the Tash Mahal far away. Tash Mahal was just as beautiful and impressive from the outside as it is on pictures. You forget that it is a mausoleum until you get inside and notice the empty room apart from the 2 coffins in the middle. Like everywhere in India the monkeys were jumping about. Early the next morning we had to catch the train to Jhansi. 4 hours ride through a landscape with scattered villages and houses made of wood and tin or just bad brickwork. The transport from Jhansi to Orchha was ½ hour in a Tuk-Tuk. The hotel was nice and cool and we avoided staying in a tent camp as it was too hot. As was the fact for most places in India there was no internet connection and it was pretty nice not to feel the social media pressure and the impactc of bad News.

Orchha is one of India's most holy places an is a pleasant very small and sleepy town by the river Betwa.

Before the Hindu ceremony (Puja) in the close by temple Ran Raja we were invited to vitness the introduction of a new website for the town – we got flowers around the neck and had our photos taken by the local journalists. They all made us feel like celebraties. It also appeared that it is a trend to have your photo taken with white tourists.

Another old palace Orchha Palace from the period of the mughals was seen in the burning sun the next day and the day after this I became ill from a virus, which made me mute for 2 days and a caught and fever for the rest of my holiday. Fortunately I had brought an entire pharmacy along with me which kept me on my feet. Before I fell ill I managed a walk on my own across the river on a bridge, which was so narrow that I was almost pushed into the river when a bus passed by to cross. Many people both men, women and children were taking a bath in the river, as they do not have running water. You do of course keep a respectful distance.

Due to my virus infection the 14 hours train ride to Varanasi was extraordinary unpleasant. The Indian trains are not exactly luxurious and the sleeping compartments are open and included up to 7 baubles, which were both short and on top of each other like a 3-bunk function. I did not sleep all night.

The hotel City Inn was not far away from the station. The drivers of the Tuk-Tuks did however notice my state of health and offered me a ride along with the trunks. I had lunch at the hotel – it was far to hot to go outside and there was not much to see  in the neighborhood of the hotel, which was pretty far from the river Ganges and the Ghats that we were going to see later. Around 5 pm we were picked up and taken to the area close to the river to make a short walk in the chaos of people, bikes, scooters, cars and cows before we reached the little boat, which took us along the Ghats to a big event of Hindu ceremonies while the sky quickly turned dark. There were unbelievable many people both in boats on the river but also on shore. Young boys were jumping from boat to boat to sell you everything from water to souvenirs.  It was all quite pieceful though to seat in a little boat so close to it all and accompanied by ceremonial Hindu bell music. The Hindus have cremations of their love ones along the river around the clock and they are a part of the entire circle of life at the river where people also wash away their sins in the dirty but holy water both morning and noon. Early next morning we were again picked up by richshaws in the alley behind the hotel to do another boatride on Ganges at sunrise and after that we took part in a morning yoga seance by a Guru and with the participation of the locals and a single cow wandering around in the middle of the crowd. After the yoga we went for a walk along some of the 108 Ghats and then took tuk-tuks to Sarnath 13 km away to see ruins where Budda had his first sermon, the holy tree (moved from its original position) and at Budda temple and to be “cheated” by a family member of one of munks, who earned his living by charging people for money to store their shooes while they visit the temple. After that we went to the weavers market in very narrow streets not possible for traffic to see how templates for patterns are made from scratch - the entire process till fabrics sold by small very arrogant muslims believing they are special as always – you can almost seperate them from any other culture just by their behaviour. He was not serviceminded at all and there was "of course" no pressure to buy. In the evening I had a cheap painting on my skin with Henna which is very common in India in connections with weddings. A local girl earned some extra money painting turists in very poor and simple shack not far from the hotel. Henna painting lasts about 2 weeks.