Portugal

Lissabon er Europas ældste by med gamle bydele på bjerglignende højder med brostensbelagte snævre gader og huse med bittesmå lejligheder uden indlagt varme eller aircondition grundet deres bevaringsværdighed.  Der er utrolig mange turister. Det virker næsten som om der er flere turister end indfødte, og som jeg har læst det, har Portugal heller ikke mange tilslørede muslimer eller mange muslimer i øvrigt – hovedsagelig pga. at landet er fattigt og derfor ikke et attraktivt valg for muslimer. Portugiserne er åbenbart trætte af turister lige som spanierne, da der et sted var skrevet med graffiti  ”tourists go home”, som man også er begyndt på i Spanien. Portugal er en fiskenation med fiskerestauranter på et hvert gadehjørne. De er ikke så gode til det kulinariske men maden er rimelig. Landet er i det hele taget rimelig billigt prismæssigt, især hvis man holder sig lidt væk fra de gængse turiststeder. Det kan også anbefales at tage til Portugal sidst i september, da temperaturen stadig er høj men ikke ekstrem.

Birgit og jeg ankom tidligt mandag morgen kl. 9 uden at have sovet i ca. 1 døgn. Jeg havde min sædvanlige lufthavnsservice, og vi kom derfor også først i køen til taxaerne uden for – køen var temmelig lang, så det var jo dejligt. Chaufføren gav os lidt sightseeing på vejen til den lejede lejlighed i Castelo Sao Jorge, der er en fæstning med en slotsruin og beboelse på toppen af et mindre bjerg, hvor vi kom til at bo allerøverst.  Det viste sig senere, at chaufføren vist scorede lige lovligt på den tur.

Lejligheden var meget lille men der var alt hvad man behøvede også i køkkenet.  Både indkøb og seværdigheder viste sig også at være lette at komme til, og når turisterne først var gået hjem sidst på eftermiddagen, var der dejlig stille til kl. 10 næste morgen. 

Vi fandt ret hurtigt de 2 elevatorer, som gjorde det let at komme ned fra bjerget til centrum. Elevatorerne var bygget efter det sidste jordskælv. Den første elevator var nem at finde – den anden fandt vi kun ved et tilfælde pga. en lommetyvs mislykkede forsøg. Elevatoren var åbenbart ikke særlig kendt af turister, da den også lå lidt gemt i en smøge.

Første attraktion, som skulle afprøves, var den meget legendariske sporvogn E28, som blev anbefalet brugt til sightseeing rundt i Lissabons bymidte. Vi blev dog smidt af 2 gange og endte med at betale temmelig meget for hele turen, da vi jo gerne ville tilbage til udgangspunktet. Vi brugte det meste af eftermiddagen på denne attraktion og traskede efterfølgende lidt rundt på vores stakkels ømme ben og endte med at spise neden for elevator 1 på en bakke så skrå at maden næsten faldt ned i munden, når man sad på den ”forkerte” side. Samme aften måtte vi gå tidligt i seng pga. den manglende søvn. Der var en del larm i gaden inden turisterne gik hjem, og vi fandt ud af at skraldemanden kom sent hver aften og hentede de små poser, som folk havde lagt uden for dørene.

Dagen efter stod vi op omkring kl. 8 og spiste noget af den morgenmad, som vi havde købt i det lille supermarked ved elevator 1 lige uden for fæstningen. Derefter gik turen med bussen ca. kl. 11 (det tog noget tid at finde ud af hvor og hvordan vi kom til Europas (måske) største akvarium Ocenarium i bydelen ved Oriente tæt på vandet – et forholdsvis nybygget og moderne område med forretningskvarterer og indkøbscentre samt en fantastisk ny tog/metrostation. Vi gik langs vandet i dejlig skygge og fandt et pænt udendørs springvand at fotografere. Akvariet var lidt skuffende og vi blev ikke så længe, så vi blev enige om at vi lige kunne nå Jadim Zoologico stik vest, som vi dog først nåede omkring kl. 16:30 (1½ time inden lukketid). Prisen passede ikke med vores oplysninger – det kostede hele €20.50 for at komme ind og så havde både delfiner og pelikaner endda vinterferie. Det viste sig at være et af verdens kedeligste zoologiske haver – oplevelsen blev dog reddet af bavianerne, hvor ungerne åbenbart kunne løbe ud af buret og underholde gæsterne mens de gamle sad bag tremmer og behændigt greb, hvad man kastede til dem.

Det var let at finde tilbage med metroen, hvor gaderne var fulde af restauranter tæt på stationen Baixa-Chiado - et centralt knudepunkt for samtlige metrolinjer. Inden vi drog hjem til lejligheden spiste vi på en af restauranterne og blev ”snydt” igen af prisen, som ikke inkluderede ”side dish”. Onsdag igen lidt sent af sted (som blev tilfældet hele turen, men vi var jo også på ferie) til Sintra og Pena-slottet. Vi købte en Viva-kort, som kunne påfyldes løbende. Efterhånden fik vi stor erfaring med transportsystemet. Det tog ca. 40 min. med tog og vi ankom sammen med en masse andre turister. Der var så mange at der skulle flere busser til. Bussen tog os den lange meget stejle vej til toppen af bjerget hvor slottet lå øverst oppe. Birgit var godt nervøs for at bremserne ikke virkede, men hun klarede at blive i bussen hele vejen op. Igen måtte vi betale kassen for at komme ind (€14) hvis vi ville se både slottet indvendigt og den kæmpestore park omkring det.  Jeg syntes dog at slottet var mere imponerende udvendigt end indvendigt – men jeg har jo også set meget.  Slottet bliver kaldet et torneroseslot, fordi det har mange forskellige farvede bygninger – er ret lille men utrolig charmerende.  Udenfor nåede vi kun at komme til stenkorset (high cross) fra det 16. århundrede på det øverste peak modsat slottet – parken var simpelthen for stor. Så gik turen tilbage til Lissabon, hvor vi spiste i en af sidegaderne omkring Rua de Victoria, som blev omdrejningspunktet og den nemme vej til Sao Jorge med de 2 elevatorer. Denne gang kom vi til at betale ekstra for det brød, en minirund hård ost samt sardinpatê i 2 bittesmå flade metaldåser, som vi ikke havde bestilt men som blev sat på bordet og som vi tog for givet hørte med, hvor vi tog det i vores tasker bortset fra den lille runde ost, der smagte som Cheddar og som vi spiste. Det viste sig, at de 2 brødhumpler var tørre dagen efter og sardinerne smagte ad pommern til og måtte smides ud. Det kostede os ekstra €5. Da vi skulle tage elevatoren som sædvanlig opdagede vi, at de lukkede kl. 21 (der var altid beredskab i tilfælde af svigt), så vi måtte tage en taxa til fæstningens indgang.

Torsdag tog vi af sted til Cascais for at bade – først gik vi til Rossio togstation men der var en kø så lang som et ondt år og var ikke den togstation vi skulle bruge, så vi måtte tilbage til ”vores” metrostation for at køre til metrostationen Cais do Sodré, hvor forbindelsen var til Cascais, som er en lille mondæn badeby ud til Atlanterhavet ca. 45 min. med tog fra Lissabon. Vi startede med at gå på strandpromenaden og derefter ned ad byens meget lille og charmerende gågade, hvor vi fik lidt at drikke og blev vidne til nogen af de protester, som pågik rundt omkring i Portugal i forbindelse med et kommende ”kommunalvalg”. Vi havde også observeret unge gå råbende igennem Lissabons centrum. Vi tilbragte noget tid bagefter ved den dejlige sandstrand – vandet var for koldt til mine knæ men Birgit var meget begejstret, da hun først kom under. Vi nåede hjem forholdsvis sent og valgte at spise i nærheden af lejligheden, hvilket var det mest dårlige valg hidtil mht. spisested – jeg fik brændt kylling, som var næsten uspiselig. Udmattelsen begyndte at vise sine tænder.

Fredagen skulle tilbringes på nogen af de markeder, som jeg havde fundet på nettet. Vi startede med at gå, hvilket viste sig at blive en længere gåtur end forventet. Birgit havde fundet ud af at metrostationerne ikke lå så langt fra hinanden, men det betød jo ikke, at det var hurtigere at gå til markedet Feira na Avenida, som skulle ligge på Avenue da Liberade. Det viste sig, at det kun var der 1 gang om måneden, så vi gik forgæves temmelig langt. Så satte vi næsen efter det næste marked Santo Estevão Urban Fair, som skulle ligge i nærheden af et museum ved vandet. Det viste sig imidlertid at det lå længere væk end forventet, at vi måtte opgive på vejen, da vi ikke umiddelbart viste hvilken bus vi skulle tage og vi allerede havde gået meget. Vi gik også i midt i solen i 30 grader, hvilket tog pippet fra os. Så efter al for meget spadseren – dog af meget snævre og charmerende gader kom vi tilfældigvis forbi en kinesisk restaurant, som vi besluttede at komme tilbage til senere for at spise fordi den lå så tæt på en metrostation – Martim Monitz. Og med held i uheld fandt vi et kæmpe kopimarked i forbindelse med metrostationen, som kun var 2 stop fra ”vores” metrostation. Efter at have fået en god hvil hjemme og et bad vendte vi tilbage for at spise og nåede så også at opleve de unge fylde gaderne for at feste.

Lørdag, som var sidste hele dag, besluttede vi os for at prøve at finde endnu et marked Feira da Ladra, som skulle være et ikonisk marked med både brugte og nye ting – det viste sig også at ligne en blanding mellem et loppemarked og almindeligt udendørsmarked, og jeg fandt et billigt blåt læderbælte og nogle smykker. Af skade havde vi taget en tuk-tuk, som blev kørt af en ung studerende, der tog os op til et fantastisk udkikspunkt tæt ved markedet. Han fortalte også lidt historie om Sao Jorge fæstningen, hvor portugiserne havde jaget Mauerne på flugt for nogle hundrede år siden. Vi besluttede efterfølgende, at vi også ville inspicere det andet marked, som vi havde fundet dagen før. Det viste sig, at markedet var betydelig større end vi havde troet. Det var ikke blot under jorden men fyldte en hel blok i sidegaden, der lå op til – der var faktisk forbindelse hele vejen under jorden.  Vi nåede derfor ikke hjem så tidligt som forventet for at slappe af men fik os alligevel taget sammen til at prøve at finde den kinesiske ”restaurant” som jeg havde læst på nettet skulle være speciel. Vi pegede en taxa og kørte til Bairro Alto – hvor vi endnu ikke havde været. Restauranten viste sig at være en ”gammel” pub med plysstole og udstillingsmontre fra gulv til loft med alle mulige sjove og forskellige udstillingsting. Efter en drik gik vi igen for at finde et sted at spise og endte med igen med at gå hele vejen til det kendte område omkring elevatorerne, hvor vi spise inden vi skyndte os hjem for at nå at få lidt søvn inden den tidlige afgang til lufthavnen. 

Lisbon is one of Europes oldest cities with many old city areas on very narrow and steep cobbled streets and houses with tiny flats without central heating or airconditioning protected as worth preserving.  There are extremely many tourists – almost more than native people or so it seems and also without many muslims, mostly because – to what I have read – that Portugal is a poor country and therefore not a good choice for muslims, as there are not many social benefits. Obviously Portuguese people are tired of tourists just as the Spanish people, as on one spot they had written with graffiti  ”tourists go home”, just like in Spain. Portugal is a fishing nation with a fish restaurant on each street corner. They are not especially good with regard to culinary delights but the food is eatable. In all the country is cheap especially if you stay away from the tourisst areas. It is also recommended to go to Portugal end of September, as it is still hot but not extremely hot.

Birgit and I arrived early Monday morning around 9 am without having had any sleep at all for about 24 hours. 1 døgn. I used my usual airport service, and consequently we got first in line to the taxis – many people were queeing so that was fortunate. The driver gave us a little sightseeing on the way to the rented flat in Castelo Sao Jorge, which is a fortress with the remainings of a castle and old residentials on top of a high hill, where our flat was at the peak of the hill. It turned out later however that the driver obviously had his share of price for the tour.

The flat was very small but had all you needed in. Also the kitchen was well equipped. Both shopping and sights were easy accessable and when the tourist had gone home late in the evening it was a nice and quiet place until the next morning around 10 am when the tourists returned and the children went to school. 

Pretty easily we found the 2 elevator which made descending the steep hill and reach the city center very easy. The Elevators were built after the last earthquake. The first elevator had been easy to find the other one however we found by accident because of an unsuccessful pickpocket attempt. This elevator was obviously not very known by tourist as it was hidden well in a smalle alley.

The first attraction to be seen and tested was the legendary tram E28 which was recommend as a mean for sightseeing around Lisbon city center. We were however kicked out of the tram twice and ended up paying a fairly great amount for the whole trip, as we wanted to get back to the starting point. We spend most of the afternoon on this attraction and afterwards we walked a bit here and there on our poor sore feet and ended up eating by elevator 1 on a hill so steep that the food almost fell into your mouth from the plate of you were on the “wrong” side of the table. The same evening we had to go to bed early because of the lack of sleep. It was a bit noisy in the streets before the tourist went home and we also later found out the garbage man came every evening to collect the garbage left outside people’s front door.

The next day we got up about 8 am and had some of the breakfast which we had bought the day before in the little supermarked by elevator 1 just outside the fortress. The excursion to the Europe’s (maybe) biggest aquarium Ocenarium was by bus around 11 am (it took some time to find out where and how to get there). The Ocenarium is placed in the area of Oriente close to the sea. The area is rather new and with modern buildings with business and shopping centers and a brand new train/metro station.  We walked along the water in a nice shade and found a nice outdoor fountain and took our first and only selfie. The aquarium was a bit disappointing so we did not stay long and agreed that we could make it to the Jadim Zoologico in the opposite direction in west Lisbon area before they closed. We arrived just 1½ time before closing time. The price certainly did not match our information – the tickets were €20.50 each and both dolfins and pelicans were off on a winter holiday. It turned out to be one of the most dull zoo I ever visited – the impression was however soften a bit by the baboons, the infants of the baboons were able to run outside the bars and entertain the zoo guests while the old ones had to stay behind and look but they were good at catching the pieces of apple thrown to them.

It was easy to find the way back to the subway Baixa-Chiado next to the streets full of restaurants –which subway seemed to be a central hub for all subway linies. Before going back to the flat we ate one of the restaurants and felt a bit cheated again because of the price which did not include side dishes such as rice. Wednesday again we left the flat a bit late (actually we did that all week but it was vacation) to Sintra and the Pena castle. We bought a Viva cart which was an add-on cart. We quickly gained great experience with the transport system. It took about 40 minutes with the train and we arrived together with a bunch of other tourist. All of them with the same purpose as us and it took a lot of busses. A bus took us the long and steep way to the top of the hill with the Pena castle on the very top. Birgit was very nervous that the brakes would work, but she managed to stay on the bus all the way to the top. Again we had to pay a lot to get in €14) if we also wanted to see the castle inside. I found however the castle more impressive outside than inside but I have also seen a lot and not easy to impress.  The castle is called the palace of the sleeping beauty because of its design and various coloured building sections – it is rather small but very charming.  We did not make much of the huge park – only the stone cross (the high cross) from the 16^th century on the opposite peak of the castle. Back to Lisbon arriving for a late dinner in one of the alleys around Rua de Victoria which had become the turning point to us and the easy way to Castelo Sao Jorge with the 2 elevators. This time we paid extra for some bread, a tiny round cheese and 2 sardine patê in tiny flat containers – things we haven’t ordered at all and took for granted were included in the meal, which is why we put in our bags apart from the little round cheese tasting like Cheddar and which we ate. It tourned out that the 2 bread hunks was very dry the next day and the sardines tasted like something you don’t want to eat and we had to throw those 2 containers out. We had paid €5 for these extras. Afterwards when we went to the elevator we discovered that they closed at 9 pm (because there had to be security people for safety reasons). Consequently we had to take a cab and fortunately they are not expensive.

Thursday we went to Cascais for swimming – first we went to the train station Rossio but people were queueing in long lines and besides it was not the train station we needed so we had to go back to ”our” subway  and take the line to Cais do Sodré which had the connection to Cascais – a small fashionable  seaside town by the Atlantic ocean about 45 minutes with train from Lisbon. We started to walk along the beach and continued to the center of the small town and its narrow charming pedestrian street where we had a drink and witnessed a ongoing protest in Portugal due to a coming municipal election. We had already observed young people walking in the streets of center Lisbon shouting.  We spend some time at the lovely beach – the water was unfortunately too cold for my knees but Birgit was very excited about it after having defeated the cold. We arrived home late and choose to eat close by the flat which was a very bad choise – I had a burned chicken which was almost uneatable. Exhaustion began to show its teeth.

Friday was chosen to explore the Portugal markets which I have found on the internet. We started to walk which turned out to be a longer walk than expected. Birgit had discoveret that the subway stations were not far apart but unfortunately it did not mean it was faster to walk to the Feira na Avenida market which was going to be on Avenue da Liberade. It also turned out unfortunately that this market was only once a month so we walked a long way in vain. We decided to go for another market Santo Estevão Urban Fair instead. This should close to the museum by the water however it turned out that it was much further away than expected and again we had to give up finding it but for different reasons as we did not know what bus to take and we already had done a lot of walking that day. We were also walking in the sun and the temperature was about 30 degrees which took the Mickey out of us. After a lot of walking – this time however in small narrow and charming old streets by accident we passed a Chinese restaurant and decided to go back there and eat later because it was conveniently placed close to the subway station Martim Monitz. Our luck was also that by accident we found a huge copy marked connected to this station only 2 stops from “ours”.  After a shower and a rest we returned to the restaurant and had a pleasant meal and saw how the young people filled the streets to party Friday night.

Saturday – last entire day – we decided to try to find the last market on my list Feira da Ladra which should be an iconic market with old and new stuff – and so it was and I bought a cheap belt and some jewelry.  Tought by yesterday walking we took a tuk-tuk to the market. It was run by a young student who took us to a fantastic place for a view over Lisbon close to the market. He also told the story about the fortress Sao Jorge and how the Portugueese had chased the Mauerne away some hundred years ago.  After visiting the market we decided also to inspect the copy market from yesterday and that was a good idea. That market was considerable bigger than first anticipated. It covered not a huge area underground but an entire blok down a pedestrian street next to the subway.  We did not manage to get home early to relaxe but as it was the last day we decided to find the spectacular Chinese restaurant that I have read about on the internet. We got ourselves a cab and drove to the area of Bairro Alto where we had not been yet. The restaurant turned out to be an ”old” pub with plush chairs and showcases from the floor to the ceiling with every possible and funny things. After a drink we went to find a place to eat but ended up in our well known area by the elevators where I had duck (not specifically tasty but a lot of meat). After the meal we hurried home to get some sleep before we had to get up very early for the flight back to Denmark.